Koya-dofu 高野豆腐 : Freeze-dried Tofu from Mount Koya-san

The Japanese food experience

One of the most distinctive characteristics of authentic Japanese food is the simplicity, freshness and clean taste of dishes with flavourings designed to complement with delicacy rather than dominance.  To Japanese tastes, 'mouth-feel' or texture is extremely important as well and some of these textures can be pretty strange to the unfamiliar.  (I can remember my first taste of Yama-imo Mountain Yam at the Hirano-ya restaurant in Arashiyama, Kyoto; a distinctive combination of sliminess and crunchiness.) However, one who like me who has grown up with western taste habits and familiar - strong - flavours can adjust to and appreciate the key differences reflected in the Japanese style of cooking and food preparation.  Just come with an open mind and be motivated by the healthy change and particularly with vegetarian ingredients and dishes.

The story of Koya-dofu 高野豆腐 

Freeze-dried tofu from Mount Koya-san is worth trying even if you don't fall in love with the texture. A quality product should still taste fresh with a slightly stronger (but clean) nuttier flavour of soya beans than fresh tofu.   This is a story of a trip to Koya-san last year and the famous Koya-dofu 高野豆腐 .  The recipe for simmered Koya-dofu with shitake is one of my favourites.

Koya-dofu is the most popular souvenir for visitors to Koya-san.  It is believed to have been first produced by the 8th patriarch of Shingon Buddhism, Kukai - also known as Kobo-dashi.  You can visit the memorial of Kobo-daishi in Koya-san.  A night-time visit walking through the ancient cemetery and avenue of cedars is an amazing experience.

Koya-dofu is an important part of Buddhist temple food [ Shojin Ryori　精進料理 ] which you can enjoy at an overnight stay at a temple.  We were very well looked after at Ekoin.

Tourists in Koya-san queuing for Koya-dofu

One of the best sources of Koya-dofu in Koya-san is Juzuya Shirobei. Their product is what I used for the recipe below.

Two brands of Koya-dofu: Juzuya Shirobei on the right.

Koya-dofu to shitake no nimono [高野豆腐としいたけの煮物] : Simmered freeze-dried tofu with shiitake mushrooms

Ingredients (for two people as part of a meal):

4 blocks of Koya-dofu

8 medium-sized dried shiitake mushrooms

200 ml of dashi stock (konbu or katsuobushi)

50 ml of sake

3 tbs mirin

3 tbs light Shoyu

Snow peas

Mitsuba or kinome

Step 1:

Soak the shiitake mushrooms in  hot water (enough to cover) for about an hour.  Trim hard stems and simmer in about 400 ml of fresh water for 15-20 minutes.  Set aside and save the stock.

Step 2:

In a glass bowl, set the tofu pieces and very gently add boiling water to cover.  Don't pour the water directly on top of the tofu because they may break.  Soak for about an hour then very gently rinse in two to three changes of water to cleanse the fine residue from the tofu.  Cut the tofu into bite-sized pieces around 2-3 cms.

Step 3:

Heat the dashi, 100 ml of the shiitake stock, mirin and shoyu in a pot to simmering point and add the tofu and the shiitake.  Simmer for around 15 minutes and take off the heat.

Serve at room temperature with the trimmed snow peas or (in summer) cool.

Horenso and o-hitashi cooking ほうれんそう おーひたし 料理法

In Japanese cooking, spinach is a favourite green vegetable often served as a side dish prepared o-hitashi style
おーひたし which literally means simmered and dressed in dashi or light stock.  This method can be used for a range of fresh tender green vegetables that need very little cooking; for example, Komatsuna  こまつな  and Tsukena type     つけな類   greens.    The two guiding principles I apply rigorously are (1) very short cooking time (either boiling or, my preference, steaming) and (2) using a light dressing that will complement, but not overpower, the flavour and freshness of the taste of the vegetables.

Japanese spinach  - Horenso -   ほうれんそう   (see photo below) is readily available in our markets but doesn’t grow so well in our local climate with very cold winters and hot summers.   I have found from some years of experience two varieties of spinach that do much better;  ‘Bloomsdale’, an American heirloom from the 1800s, and ‘Gigante d’Inverno’ , a big favourite of Italians.   Both of these types have larger, fleshier leaves than Horenso but still tender with a beautiful, rich flavour.  I plant them directly where they are to grow in mid Autumn (around mid to late April) and pick them leaves or plants from late July to late September.  The plants will tend to bolt when warm weather of Spring comes around. 

Japanese Spinach

Spinach "Gigante d'Inverno" growing in my garden in late June

This is one of my favourite ways of preparing Horenso (or Spinach).  It goes well as a side dish in a home style Japanese meal or can be dressed up as part of a formal banquet.

Horenso Goma  ほうれんそうごま

 

Ingredients (for two people):

Two bunches of spinach (about 750gm)
50 ml konbu dashi (or katsuoboshi dashi if you prefer)
1 tbs mirin
1 tsp Japanese shoyu
Lime juice
Sesame seeds (white or black)

Method

Toast 1-2 tablespoons of sesame seeds in a dry frypan.  Set aside.  Wash and trim stalks of the spinach and place in an already hot steamer.  Steam for no more than it takes for the spinach to just wilt (around 1 minute).  Remove and drain pressing excess moisture from the leaves.   Squeeze the vegetable together on a bamboo sushi mat and roll tight.  Cut into sections no more than 2 cm long and arrange on a plate.  Heat the dressing ingredients (dashi, mirin, shoyu and a squeeze of fresh lime juice) to just boiling.  Dress the spinach and sprinkle with sesame seeds.  

Notes:

·         While simmering in water in a pan is more common for the o-hitashi style vegetables, I find steaming works just as well and is, in fact, healthier by retaining more nutrients in the vegetables.

·         An alternative dressing can be made by grinding 2-3 tablespoons of toasted white sesame seeds and mixing with 1 teaspoon of sugar, dashi and light shoyu.  Sprinkle with a little shredded nori.

Growing Japanese Vegetables: Broccoli Rabe Blossom 菜花

This a great vegetable for early winter cropping in a cool climate (like Canberra).  It is a favourite in Japanese cooking for steaming an in pickles ( 漬物 ). The plant is known in Italian cuisine as Cime di Rapa.   Plant from seed in late March to early April in rich soil and it will start producing buds in late May to early July.  It is a fairly resistant to cabbage moth butterfly grub infestation as long as it is well fed and kept watered.

When the plants are small and leafy the whole plant should be tender enough to eat; that is, stems and leaves and any flower heads or buds.  It is rich in Beta-carotene and has a rich flavour like Chinese broccoli but with just a hint of mustard.  It will combine well with stronger flavoured vegetables including garlic, onion and mushrooms.

In Japanese the vegetable is called Nabana ( なばな  )  or Nanohana （ななはな ) which describes the blossom buds.

Nabana growing in my garden in early June.

Here's one of my favourite Japanese recipes for Nabana. The combination of the toasty flavours of the tofu and the tangy mustard works very well.

Rape blossoms in mustard dressing [ 菜の花のからし和え ]

Ingredients: (for two people as part of a traditional Japanese meal.)

2-3 small bunches of nabana
250 g thin deep fried tofu (firm variety)
25 ml light shoyu
2 teaspoons Japanese mustard (smooth or grainy)
50 ml dashi (konbu- or katsuodashi)
1 tbsp mirin

Grill tofu on high heat until toasted , then set aside to keep warm.  Mix mustard, shoyu, mirin and dashi in a small bowl and heat.  Trim and cut nabana into short lengths (about 5 cm) and steam for no more than 3 minutes.  Toss dressing with nabana and finely sliced tofu.  Serve.